We made it!

So we made it back to Yangon and then home to see Alice and Polly. Its extraordinary how hard the 6.5 hours time difference is to overcome when you are 53 like me. I was absolutely knackered last night by the time we went to bed, went to sleep immediately and woke up 2 hours later thinking it was 9 o'clock in the morning and that i should be on the road heading for a regularity. I'm sure that i will get over it soon.

Now we gently reflect on our experiences over the last 3 weeks and savour them for many years to come.

First and foremost Julian was the most marvellous co-driver. We chatted away for 3 weeks without drawing breath. Rallying, cars, Slim, education, politics, the dutch, Volvos, Slim and more Slim, there wasn't a topic that we didn't cover.

What do i take away from Myanmar and the rally. Firstly 3rd place overall and Winner of our class. being beaten by two 1970's cars (Volvo and BMW) doesn't really count so I think morally we must have been higher. So unfair that Gerd and Birgit blew up their pre-war BMW at the regularity in Bagan. We would never have caught them which would have put us in 4th overall. Having blown my car up on more than one rally I know exactly how they feel and they have my total sympathy. Such a nice car and such nice people, we called them the fox and the vixen because we were always chasing them and they never put a foot wrong, until Gerd quite literally put his foot wrong, hard on the accelerator instead of the brake, over revved the engine and bent his exhaust valves.

As always on long rallies you make some fantastic new friends and renew old friendships.

Ines and Xavier (car 5) in their unbreakable Chevy and Julian and I (car 6) travelled the rally together, laughing all the way. As Miranda's mother in the TV series says "such fun". It was so nice to get to know Michael and Simone (car 8), the only other Lagonda in the rally. At 96 the oldest participant was Dorothy Cauldwell, Alastair's navigator and mother. A forthright old bird, you can tell where Alastair gets it from. Kate and Dougie in the XK150 cruised along behind us, always a joy to see. It was nice to see Roger and Maggie in their BMW again. We shared 3 days together in the Mongolian desert in the back of the Bus of Shame and they pipped us to second place. Their BMW was certainly more reliable than their Cadillac on the Peking to Paris. Jose and Maria, also P2P participants, who I didn't really know then but now consider firm friends. Ian and Denise from Australia in their delightful MGA won the Spirit of the Rally and deserved it. Heidi and Jackie battled remorselessly with their Lotus Cortina which we heard coming from the previous state! So nice to see Heidi back behind a wheel rather than charging ahead to organise our rooms as on previous rallies. Barbara ands Adrian always chugging along on their Model A, reliable as ever. That's focusing on the positive, I will ignore the negative!

Myanmar is still an extraordinary country to visit and we were so lucky to have the time to enjoy it and its people over 21 days. The county is still so unspoilt as are its people. Although under the yolk of military dictatorship for the last 50 years the people are extraordinary. Honest, spiritual, embracing I cannot fault them at all. The breadth and diversity of the people as one travels through makes it one of the most interesting places on earth to rally.

The highlights included;
1. seeing the monument to central planning, the new capital city Naypyidaw and having the opportunity to take the Lagonda at speed down the 20 lane highway
2. Inle, the most beautiful lake with its floating fields, its market, boat builders, weavers and fishermen. I have never seen fishermen with such balance before. In 10 years time it will be unrecognisable.
3. Mandalay with the rebuilt palace within Dufferin Fort. Burnt down in 1945 during the recapture of Mandalay the palace was rebuilt by the generals in 1999 to give them good luck.
4. Maymyo was fantastic rediscovering Julian's family. the visit to the Angican church, Julians grandparents house, the drive through the Botanic garden and discovering my doppelganger Sir Harcourt Butler
5. Climbing Mount Popa
6. Bagan, the city of 10000 temples is extraordinary but doing a regularity amongst them was really exciting, particularly when we nailed it. The balloon trip was even better than I anticipated
7. the school visit was simply fantastic and all credit to Julian for organising the football match which all the school loved.

There were so many other little treats along the way, too many to put down here, but all of which will give me pleasure for years to come.

Seeing the ground over which my father fought in 1945 was extraordinary. For Julian to discover the house in which his grandparents lived and his father grew up even more so. The enthusiasm amongst our fellow ralliers for such personal discoveries was delightful.

I had the most fantastic time and thank Julian for his contribution to the success of the visit.

I look forward to revisiting Myanmar as soon as possible.

A second Cunningham on the Chindwin

The first river that father crossed in 1945 was the Chinwin which the 19th Indian Div crossed much further north to where I am standing (on the Japanese side). I have no doubt that I would have a much easier time of it than he had!

One of father's bridges?

I think this bridge was too far west for father to have either built or demolished but I think that it was built before the war.

A new profession for Xavier

Highlight of the trip

This morning on the journey from Magwe to Pyay we visited a local school. It was fantastic. They had never seen a tourist before. Julian gave a impromptu English lessor which the children picked up so quickly. I think it was his impersonations of "dog" and "cat" which won them over. The children and teachers were simply a joy to meet.

We had with a game of football. Our average age was about 55 theirs about 10. Julian was our captain, Xani their manager. Our captains instructions were "let them win by a goal". At half time we were 3-0 down! Playing in sand was a new experience for most of our players. However Roger Allen needs to be penalised at least 5 seconds for missing our best opportunity, about 3ft in front of their goal. I think we lost by 5 or 6. But what a game as we tumbled in the sand the kids laughed and laughed.

We donated books, pens and fillers, kindly donated by H&H. The crews had a whip round which will provide the school with vital resources and before leaving we were sung a song.

Julian and I both drove down the road in silence (for a change). It was a fantastic visit which we will always remember.

Last minute hiccup!

Julian and I drove 200km yesterday through dry rural countryside. It's so different from the more lush land further north but beautiful as ever. The people are as charming as throughout Myanmar.

When filling up with fuel at the end of the day we noticed a continuous drip, drip of oil under the car. Since I haven't put any into the engine throughout the rally I was a bit worried. I put a plastic tray under it to catch what we are loosing and as the oil cooled he dripping stopped. The mechanics told me to keep an eye on it and not to worry, so that's what I am doing.

The hotel is basic but clean, no wine, only beer which has traumatised some crews! Rallies always show initiative and some disappeared to return with more wine than we could drink. I certainly won't be bringing any home!

Dinner finished with Alastair Cauldwell sharing his views about Formula One's main characters. Very amusing but clearly not to be repeated in print. Perhaps it had something to do with the amount of wine! His car and his 96 year old navigator, as always, are running smoothly.

During todays final regularity we got 2 seconds of penalties which left us 3 seconds adrift of Roger and Maggie in 3rd position. Beaten by two 1970's Classics, a Volvo and a BMW. Not bad for a 1933 car. We've just got to finish the next couple of days and 450km and 3rd place and Class winner is ours.

Tonight we are split across two hotels, the noisy competitors are in a hotel with the crew which should be fun. Then it's into Yangon in time for tea and medals.

I've volunteered to collect for the mechanics whip round. Non contributors will be named and shamed.

I think we are on an 8 am flight on Saturday which might be testing. I cannot wait to see Al!


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The lady with the long neck

Before leaving Bagan Xavier, Iness, Julian and I visited the lady with the long neck. Slightly weird but fascinating. They come from south of Yangon and are excellent weavers.

Last regularity this afternoon.

The communications building on Popa

The view from the top of Mount Popa

Mount Popa

Today we started with a time trial (regularity) which we finished with 5 seconds penalties. Roger and Maggie were on 8 secs so I think that we go into tomorrows last regularity like as we lie in joint 2nd place!

I found a broken bracket this morning which we repaired and them cleaned oil filters and oiled the carbs.

The end of the test took us to Mount Popa resort hotel for lunch. It is a stunning spot looking out over a monestry 700 steps up an adjacent rock stack. We decided to climb the mountain after lunch. With a slightly jippy tummy and a long way up to the summit we set off with a guide. No one else seemed to want to join this exciting expedition in the heat of the day, under he relentless Burmese sun. 2 hours later we summited looking as if we had just got out of the sauna. Our guide on the other hand hadn't broken a sweat at all. He had spent most of the climb looking rather anxiously at me, wondering whether or not he was going to have to carry me down. Fantastic views from the top. Communications towers, the inevitable temple and a corrugated iron hut with at one end 1940's generator and electrical supplies and at the other a state of the art cellular base station being installed. The whole thing wide open for us to see. All the kit is being carried to the top by hand, strapping bamboo poles to the side of the box and carrying them the old fashioned way. Well no one else can claim a Burmese mountain on this trip.

I drove back as the sun was going down over Bagan a genuinely spectacular sight.

We decided not to go and have dinner in a Temple nearby with everyone else only to be joined by the usual team plus Dorothy and Alaistair Caldwell and Heidi. A very nice dinner, paid for exceptionally kindly by Xavier. Of cause on the way back to my room the lights all went out and the generator started up. Where is it located? You've guessed it, right outside my room!

Tomorrow we leave late on the way to Yangon. The car is running smoothly, we are both in excellent fettle and looking forward to seeing everyone on Sunday.

Snakes and rallying

Whilst ballooning yesterday, Nobby our pilot told us that Bagan is riddled with snakes. There are 20 different poisonous snakes in Burma, the worst being the Burmese Viper.

Doc John told us the story of two guys in the bush. One of them was bitten by a Burmese Viper on his todger. His mate called the doctor for advice. "unless you suck the poison out he will be dead in 30 minutes" the doctor advised. "what did he say? asked the poor fellow writhing in agony on the ground. " you're dead in 30 minutes" came the reply.

I'm afraid the the news of the snakes definitely impacted my approach to the rough, where I seemed to spend most of my time, during the Bagan Classic yesterday

30km regularity today which we must nail. Straightforward so the application of all technology, brain power and cunning is required. I think that Heidi (Lotus Cortina) will give us her calculations which she has got off Julian and Gus (Aston Martin) who have worked everything out to the second. We are in third place , 3 seconds behind Roger ad Maggie Allen and 49 seconds behind Jose and Maria.

The Aston broke both it's rear shock absorbers early in the rally which makes for uncomfortable driving. They flew out two new ones (£1500) which cost them $2500 in duty. They have already broken one of the new ones bottoming the car in a water gully. The good news is that they have a dust buster so their car is very tidy!

Dinner last night was in Burmese national costume. Though i say it myself I looked rater magnificent in flip flops, longue (like a sarong) and Burmese shirt which I acquired yesterday. Julian appeared in a ladies longue much to the surprise and amusement of the waiters. Hilarious!

Off to Mount Popo today to, much to my surprise, see a Pagoda!


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The Bagan Classic

After ballooning we went to the Bagan Golf Club for a repay of the Maymyo Classic which Xavier and I lost on the last putt.

After 2 holes Xavier and I were 1 down, and then Dougie screwed up allowing us back to all square. We were 2 up with 2 to play, 1 up with 1 to play and then Dougie drilled his drive into he rough n he left. Xavier and I both drove into the rough on the right. Julian then put his drive straight down the middle. Ahhhhhhhh....... We lost the 9th and drew the Bagan Classic.

Gutted we went into the club house. How did we let it slip through our fingers?

Off to visit a local village in the Lagonda and then a lacquer factory. Unbelievable craftsmanship.

Something for everyone today.

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Bagan

Bagan

Sun up over Bagan

We rose is morning at 5am to go up over Bagan as the sun came up. Fantastic! I've never been in a balloon before. Despite it being very cosy, the flight was simply amazing.

We flew for an hour or so, feeling completely safe. Nobby the pilot was great and landed with no bump at all.

Sundown

Sundowners on the banks of the Irrawaddy

The road to Bagan

We travelled today for 200km to Bagan, the extraordinary home of 10000 Pagodas, of which over 2000 still stand. It was a magnificent drive through changing landscapes, crossing the 4km bridge over the Irrawaddy to lunch on the river bank. I passed Alastair Caldwell and his Mum Dorothy, ag 96 and still navigating. Probably a once in a rallying lifetime experience!

After lunch we did a magnificent regularity on dust tracks through the Pagodas. A brilliant test which we though we had nailed. Julian navigated perfectly, not an easy task at all with cars getting lost all over the place. I drove on the spot of the allotted speed. 50 yards from he end the two Dutch cars, who weren't competing, were sitting in the track blocking us and we picked up penalty points. I haven't seen Julian so cross before. He's getting the competitive rallying bug.

Sadly Gerd broke his car today, bending the valves by over revving it, so they are out of the rally. They were doing so well, nailing each regularity and deserving their first place. Sadly also,is that Roger and Maggie Allen did better on the regularity and have pipped us for second place, so we remain in third overall, first in our class.

We arrived at our very comfortable hotel, a nice swim and then a 20 minute drive to our boats to go for drinks on the river bank. Rum sours and nibbles on an Irrawaddy sandbank as the sun goes down. Just brilliants. One rum sour and everyone was having a great time.

Supper with Xavier, Iness, Michael, Simone and Julian celebrating Simones birthday tomorrow. That's the third birthday on the rally.

We get up at 5am tomorrow to take a balloon ride over Bagan as the sun comes up. It should be an extraordinary sight. Michael hates heights sothat should. Be net resting. The only person onboard who wears a parachute is the pilot, slightly worrying.

Then we are playing the Bagan Classic, the same four ball as before but this time we will take more balls and even more caddies.

Lots to report later.

Important email news just arrived. I have passed my Diss Prep essay so the MA remains on course.

Lots of love to all
Sir Harcourt Butler


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Dinner at the Governors Residence Maymyo

Sir Harcourt Butler was the governor of Burma and built the Botanic Gardens. Some rally members suggest that there is an uncanny resemblance.

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Climbing to the pagoda

Now that's what I call a pipe!

A large monkey

A small monkey

A visit to the caves

After a late night last night at a slightly depressing hotel we went out to the caves about 25 km away. It was a great drive. We screwed up the regularity due to my navigation error but it doesn't count to the rally so we re still in third place.

We had a great day. Fascinating caves, a good walk to the top pagoda, delicious lunch at a local restaurant and Ai good drive back.

Refuelled, oil checked, water full and new Brantz rally clock fitted. Let's hope it helps!

Tomorrow it Bagan, the site of 1000 pagodas. It should be amazing.




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A nun in the caves